总第145期 2018年9月 上一期 下一期

第八版 寰球天地

一次旅行

Two Days  in Puzhehei, Yunnan
在普者黑的两天
宁波华外 薛洪波
      At the suggestion of Ben and Tina, we made a decision to enjoy the primitive Puzhehei, a fantastic resort to kill and beat summer heat. It was an absolute fun tour. 


a boat carried the ten of us to the cave, a typical part of the karst land formation. This region used to be under the sea, but now rises above water, forming karst caves and stone forests with lakes. Accordingly, it is universally acknowledged that Puzhehei is a smaller Guilin. And the bizarre stalactites and stalagmites which took billions of years to develop set our imagination loose, reminding of figures in the ancient legends and folk lore, some beneficent, others evil. 


The second day we went boating from the Fairy Cave to Puzhehei Village. Floating on the clean and clear mirror, we felt like birds in flight. The mountains reflected into the serene lake, lotuses dotted among them, wild ducks and drakes playing under the lotus leaves, and fishes rushing to and fro and diving up and down amongst the lotus stems. When meeting other boats, we would greet and photo each other though we were all strangers in a strange land. 


The boatman was a Sani minority man, dark, short but amiable but strong. His folks believe in the God of Mountain.Seemingly, they still follow the prehistoric customs and practice the primitive rituals. Actually, they live in harmony with nature and in awe of their ancestors. For the most part, they are still honest, credible and simple. I wonder how long they will stay the same, with the increasing invasion of the so-called advanced culture, that is, the commercial business drive. 


在本和蒂娜的建议下,我们决定去享受原始的普者黑,一个消暑消暑的好去处。这是一次非常有趣的旅行。

      一艘船载着我们十个人来到山洞,这是喀斯特陆地形成的典型地貌。这个地区过去是在海下,但现在上升到水之上,形成喀斯特洞穴和石林湖泊。因此,普者黑是一个较小的桂林,这是大家公认的。古怪的钟乳石和石笋历经数十亿年的发展才使我们的想象力得到放松,使人想起古代传说和民间传说中的人物,有的仁厚,有的邪恶。
      第二天,我们从仙人洞划船到蒲哲黑村。飘浮在清澈透明的镜子上,我们感觉像鸟儿在飞翔。山峦映入宁静的湖中,莲花点缀其中,野鸭和野鸭在荷叶下嬉戏,鱼儿在荷叶间来回跳跃。当我们遇见别的小船时,我们会互相问候,尽管我们都是陌生人。
      船夫是一个少数民族,黝黑,矮小,但蔼可亲、坚毅。他信仰山岳之神,似乎仍然遵循史前习俗,实行原始仪式。事实上,他们与自然和谐相处,敬畏祖先。在大多数情况下,他们仍然诚实、可信和单纯。我想知道,随着所谓先进文化的入侵,也就是商业文化的推动,他们还会保持多久。

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